Full RV Interior and Exterior Detailing in Yorba Linda

Roof first, with a cleaner appropriate to the membrane. EPDM rubber roofs chalk as they age and that chalk washes down the sides, staining them. TPO and fiberglass roofs behave differently and take different products. Using a petroleum based cleaner on EPDM degrades it, which is a common and avoidable mistake.

Then sidewalls, caps, awning rails, slide faces and the awning fabric itself. Gelcoat and painted areas are assessed for oxidation and treated with washing, decontamination and then correction where the condition calls for it. Black streaking below awning rails and roof edges is a specific problem needing dedicated treatment rather than general washing.

Then the details that make a vehicle look properly done: wheels and wheel wells, bay doors and interiors, the entry step, glass inside and out, and window and door seals cleaned and treated so they do not dry and crack. On coaches with heavy graphics the decals are assessed separately, since failing vinyl can be lifted by aggressive polishing and may need removal instead.

• Roof cleaned first with product matched to the membrane material
• Every roof seal, vent and gasket inspected and reported on
• Sidewalls, caps, slide faces and awning rails treated for black streaking
• Gelcoat and paint assessed for oxidation before any correction work
• Wheels, wheel wells, bays and entry steps cleaned
• Glass, window seals and door seals cleaned and conditioned

Interiors are where the smell lives, and smell is the thing owners want fixed most and describe least precisely. Sources are usually one of four: the holding tank system, moisture in soft furnishings, mould from a water intrusion, or long term cooking and smoke residue in the headliner and upholstery.

Identifying which comes before cleaning, because they need different treatment and because two of them mean something else is wrong with the vehicle. A mould smell after a cleaning is a water intrusion problem, not a detailing problem, and telling an owner that plainly is more useful than deodorizing over it.

The work itself covers upholstery extraction, headliner cleaning, which requires care because RV headliners are frequently fabric bonded to a substrate and will delaminate if soaked, cabinetry cleaning and conditioning, hard surface cleaning, flooring, window coverings and the parts nobody reaches, meaning under furniture, behind the refrigerator and inside cabinet bases.

Wash more often than you think and dry it. Most exterior degradation is from ultraviolet exposure and from contaminants sitting on the surface, so removing them regularly does more good than any product applied twice a year.

Keep the roof clean, particularly on EPDM where chalking runs down and stains. Treat window and door seals so they stay flexible, because a dried seal fails and admits water. Cover or shade the vehicle where possible, since the Southern California sun does more damage to gelcoat than everything else combined.

Inside, ventilate. A closed coach in summer heat bakes adhesives and vinyl and holds moisture. Roof vents cracked open with a cover, or a fan run periodically, prevents a large share of the interior problems we are asked to clean up later.